Spain and its regions. Homage to Barcelona

Catalonia could be more of a challenge to Madrid than the Basque region

SPAIN'S richest region, Catalonia, is normally a sensible enough place. But its politicians may not be. On a recent trip to Israel, Josép Lluis Carod-Rovira, leader of the nationalist Catalan Republican Left (ERC), boycotted a wreath-laying at the tomb of Yitzhak Rabin because no Catalan flag was flying. He also called on Catalans not to back Madrid's bid for the 2012 Olympics, triggering a slump in sales of cava (Catalan sparkling wine) in the Spanish capital. Then there was the plea by Pasqual Maragall, Catalonia's Socialist premier (who is in coalition with Mr Carod-Rovira), for France to take Catalonia into the club for French-speaking countries. That riled Castilians - as did plans to ban bullfighting in Barcelona.

Underlying such friction is Catalonia's desire for a new constitutional statute giving it more autonomy. Spain's Socialist prime minister, José Luis Rodriguez Zapatero, has agreed to consider this, if only to respond to Catalonia's complaints about paying far more into the national kitty than it takes out. Mr Maragall also backs demands that Catalonia be recognised as “a nation”. After all, Valencia, governed by the centre-right, has adopted a new constitutional statute referring to its region's “historic nationality”. Yet the right frets that a weak Socialist-led government, dependent on regional nationalists, could endanger Spain's much-prized unity.

Mr Zapatero is already under fire for offering to talk to the Basque terrorist group, ETA, if it renounces violence. Catalonia, with a population of almost 7m and one-fifth of Spain's GDP, matters more. The 1978 constitution gave it plenty of autonomy, and the offer of more has emboldened other regions. A survey by El Pais found that 11 of Spain's 17 regions want more autonomy. Even some Socialists are unhappy about this. The Socialist leader of Extremadura, Juan Carlos Rodriguez Ibarra, and the defence minister, José Bono, have both attacked Mr Maragall. Mr Ibarra took umbrage at Catalans' claims that they subsidised poorer regions, telling them to “stick the cash where it fits”. The government promises not to give Catalonia a financial deal that is not available to, and backed by, other regions.

Mr Maragall dismisses talk of a crisis. He decries Spain's political culture, wedged between a centrist right and nationalists who cannot accept the pluralist reality of Spain. Will Mr Zapatero turn down Catalonia's new statute? “He will never say no. That is why he is so well considered here. He understands the plural reality of Spain,” says Mr Maragall. He does not want an independent Catalonia, but he points to growing acceptance of federalism. A recent article in El Pais, by its former editor, Juan Luis Cebrian, called on Spaniards to overcome fears of the word “federal”. “The statute does not have to be particular,” says Mr Maragall, adding that “the word nation is polysemic”. But like any good Catalan, he seeks more control of money. He wants to collect all taxes and pay Madrid only for central services, plus a small amount for other regions.

Some Catalan nationalists might accept federalism, though Basque nationalists want a “free state” associated with Spain. If Mr Carod-Rovira has his way, Catalonia will be independent in 15 years. But even he says this is not a priority. Demonised by the right for having once spoken to ETA, Mr Carod-Rovira is now a regular interlocutor of the government in Madrid. He thinks Catalonia is on a journey to independence, and he is using the Socialists to get there. Mr Maragall, well versed in the ambiguous language of regional nationalism, is relaxed. “They [the nationalists] can be seduced,” he says.

Mr Zapatero's overtures to ETA may well fail, after recent ETA bombings. But it is Catalonia that will really test whether, for all his fondness for dialogue and negotiation, Mr Zapatero has, as Spaniards like to say, the trousers for the job.

Article looks at moves by Catalonia to demand further autonomy from Spain;