A sociological guide to watching the World Cup

Date: 15/06/06

In 1993 social anthropologist Jeremy MacClancy explained at length what many fans had long suspected: that football was more than just a game.

By following the fortunes of Athletic Bilbao, MacClancy explained how Basque nationalism was expressed through football. Athletic, in contrast to cosmopolitan-rivals Real Madrid, fielded an all-Basque team (at least before the 'Bosman ruling') and political chants distinguished Athletic fans from others.

This summer's World Cup offers ample opportunities for amateur anthropologists to observe this 'vehicle for identity' at first hand.

And where better to do this than multinational Brussels, with its Irish, Brazilian, American, Greek, Spanish and Ivorian bars?

To find Portuguese (and Brazilian) fans head to the bars between place Flagey and avenue de la Couronne. The Spanish Eurocrats will migrate to the tapas bar Amigos de Arag-n on place des Gueux and at La Bodeguilla on rue Archim�. During the 2004 European championship Italian fans could be found in Ralph's on place du Luxembourg; expect to see them there again. The best place to witness fans of the host country Germany might be rue Stevin's Maxburg, which will show all the games along with German beer. Czech and English fans, at least those who are diplomats, will be able to watch their teams play at their respective missions to the EU. The English will be able to watch on their ground floor - dubbed the Number Ten Club.

At more neutral venues such as Fat Boys on place du Luxembourg, Kitty O'Shea's on boulevard Charlemagne or The Bank on rue du Bailli, the amateur anthropologist will be able to recognise national tribes by their T-shirts and flags.

Dutch fans often stand out. As well as their near-phosphorescent orange hues they will also be noticeable for their "leeuwenhose" which combines the tail of the national symbol, the lion, with traditional Bavarian Lederhosen.

Disciples of MacClancy should also analyse the football fans' chanting.

If there are any Dutch who are not sporting orange they may be identified by the chant "hup Holland hup" (go Holland go). They also attempt to antagonise Germans, demonstrating their sophisticated grasp of languages by singing "Deutschland, Deutschland, alles ist vorbei" (Germany, Germany, everything is over).

The English also often allude to their past relations with Germany by whistling the tune from 1963 film classic, The Great Escape, which charts the story of allied soldiers attempting to escape from a German prisoner-of-war camp. References to world wars abound, but might be more suppressed in Brussels than elsewhere.

The Czechs will rally to the cry of "who's-not-jump-ing-is-no-Czech - hoe-hoe-hoe". Spaniards are reputed to sing Manolo Escobar's Que viva Espa-a, although it is hard to find a Spaniard who will confess to doing so. One fan said: "This is probably why we always lose in the quarter finals." The traditional lack of support for the national team (in a country whose patriotism is weakened by regional rivalries) might explain why this year's official song seems to focus on the opposition; "a por ellos oe, a por ellos oe" (let's get them, oi).

The Swedes are trying to buck their stereotypical image of everyone working tillsammans (together) by singing the praises of star-striker Zlatan Ibrahimovich, while also showing off their ability with languages:

"No one kicks a football like him - Zlatan, Zlatan; Hope of the Swedes, our superman - Zlatan, Zlatan; I love you, Ich liebe dich - Zlatan Ibrahimovich."

There are signs that Portugal might be seeking to shed its prima donna image. Fans will be heard encouraging their team to score and run more, and perhaps be a little less more robust, with a rap tune: "Marca mais! Corre mais! Menos ais, menos ais, menos ais! Quero muito mais!" (Score more! Run more! Fewer injuries! I want much more!)

Author explains where to find World Cup supporters in Brussels during the 2006 tournament and how to tell them apart.